In Dhanachuli, days are shorter, rains stay longer and lunches taste better. This small village in Uttarakhand, named after its wealth of grains, has eluded the average traveller. And maybe that’s why it’s a bit too mysterious, fascinating and endearing.

After a one-and-a-half hour journey from the Kathgodam railway station, the white-and-yellow sloped roof of Te Aroha – the lone but gratifying stay option in Dhanachuli – looms high. Run by Delhi-based lawyer couple Asha Barmola and Sumant Batra, the property is an assortment of cottages, gardens, stairways, gravel pathways and an entire vintage museum called Chitrashala.